|
 Buying a car, even used - a joyous event, but troublesome. Here it is necessary to keep "eyes open". The seller can easily see through you in the beginner and "modestly keep silent" about any shortcomings. It is always better come up with a man who understands cars, but most know some basic things is also not a sin. This text may not make you a pro, but will give the necessary insight into the most important points.
To start
- 1. "Check" to start another on the phone. Here is a list of questions the general plan that you can ask the seller:Is it the first owner of the car? In this case, it should have all the necessary documents. What year car? Learn also how it operated. If the owner is simply gone to the summer cottage, it is one thing, but if doing all year, "taxi driver" - is quite another. Determine the real age of the car can be for a variety of symptoms. For example, you can see the marks of glasses and to know the year of issue - it should not differ greatly from model year car. But, again, the nature and operating conditions are much more important.
- 2. Where there was a car and drove a owner at it in the winter? On parked in the open air or in a warm garage. It is very important not only in terms of keeping the carcass. For example, the degree of wear on one engine is running in the cold equivalent to several hundreds of kilometers in the summer.
- 3. What is the mileage car? Do not focus on this, but remember for the future. On examination, you can check the odometer. If the number of calls you have doubts, then perhaps his "twist off." You already know how heavily the car is used, and can, by multiplying the average annual mileage (typically 15-30 thousand kilometers) of age, to estimate the actual mileage. But, as is the case with age, importantly, on what roads these miles were rolled up.
- 4. Find out why he is selling this car. If, due to the fact that he fathered a child, or just need the money, it's a good sign but if a person responds something unintelligible, perhaps, the cause of any serious faults.
- 5. What is the state car? The principle of "free cheese is only in a mousetrap" is quite appropriate. Just because prices do not underestimate and do not inflate. Ask about all the repairs, after which passed a car, and replaced parts. This may hint at not advertised (or deliberately hushed owner) problem.
- 6. Was the car in an accident? An accident can make a significant change at work, even those parts and components that were not directly affected and have not been repaired. If, for example, suffered spars (the internal supporting element of the body), it is can significantly reduce the overall structural strength and, consequently, safety. In any case, a man who does not just want to get rid of old junk, stick it to you myself much tell. His attitude to the car will be felt, pay attention to it.
First impression
If the car is not "dead" and in general you like, then perform an external examination. That's what should pay attention at first. Inspect body for rust and rot. The most common place - skirts, wheel arches, the trunk (under the mat). Little rust - that's fine, but if its a lot, from the purchase should be avoided. Check the paint layer. If plastered any scratches or dents, the more likely it will be seen as just to get into the color is very difficult. If the body was painted entirely, this should cause your suspicion - It is possible that the painting was made in order to conceal serious defects. If you notice any swelling or undulation, and the owner claims that the car in the accident had happened, it is clear sign that he keep back something.
Look under the car
See if small puddles on the pavement and there is not dripping from somewhere. These may include: oil or antifreeze - brake fluid (green or red), petrol or water (water may be just condensation from the air conditioner). Generally speaking, a slight leakage of oil from the engine for the used car is not something extraordinary. But if there is a leak (or a lot) and yourself can not appreciate the seriousness of it is better to postpone the purchase and to invite a knowledgeable person. Pay attention to the wheels. They must be straight, without bias, otherwise case - is not regulated by the collapse of the similarity. Look also at the tread tires, wear and tear should be uniform.
Look under the hood
On one engine only appearance can say a lot about how the machine itself and its owner. Desirable to carry out inspection twice - before and after the test drive it. The engine must be clean. Itself. That is, it should not be obvious streaks of oil. If he was "shining", the more likely it cleaned up before sale. Any "improvement" and homemade - duct tape, wire, etc. - should alert you. Take a look at the inner wall of the hood. If it is covered with a black coating, the oil leak is very likely. Check out all transmission belts on pulleys for wear. They are made of reinforced rubber and trapezoidal (or oval) cross section. Worn belt usually turns white, it becomes visible to thread fittings.
Start the engine
Leave the hood open and turn the key in the ignition so as to include devices (not start). This should light up lamp battery and oil pressure. Bad, if it did not happen. Start the engine. If the lamp is not extinguished, then you have reason to ask the owner of several direct questions. Notice how quickly started the engine. Work he should quietly and evenly. Press the accelerator and listen. Are there any knocks and drops.
Release the pedal. If speed is not dropped at once, or they are too large even at idle, then there is problems with adjustment. It says more about the owner than about the engine because the operation is simple, and if it was not completed before the sale, it is quite possible that there were problems more serious. Notice the color of the exhaust. White color should disappear as soon as the engine warms up (especially if the weather is dry and warm) - if not, the motor can be worn cylinder head, and it should be changed. The black color means that the engine needs no adjustment, but if smoke is bluish, it's bad - serious repair is necessary.
Check the oil level and brake fluid
Many people think that blood is the engine - it is petrol. It's not quite true, in fact, gasoline - is the food the motor, and his blood is oil. Those who forget to check the oil level (and top up if necessary) significantly shorten the life of the engine: it overheats and wears out faster. After the engine warmed up, turn it off. Remove dipstick, wipe it with a cloth and put in place. Then again, remove and see what it is covered with oil. Usually on the dipstick is the corresponding label, which shows the required level. But in addition to the quantitative evaluation should assess the oil quality. If the oil is dark, it's normal. It is not normal if it is thickened and appears on the dipstick is not a thin film, and going lumpy. An oil change is one of the basic and necessary operations, and if the owner too lazy to do it regularly, the engine is likely to severely deteriorated.
Do not forget to also check the brake fluid level. This can be done by unscrewing the cap container.
Check shock absorbers and lights
Check the condition of the shock absorber can be dramatically shaking down every corner of the car. If she makes more than one vibrational motion, the shock absorbers need replacing. Try to work all the car lights - headlights, turn signals, brake lights and reverse signals. Also, check the lighting in the cabin.
Check the backlash
Should pay particular attention to the backlash steering, clutch and brake pedals. Maximum allowable steering wheel play is 5 centimeters, which means it must rotate no more than 5 inches on each side before the turn of the wheel. Turn on first gear and try to move. Note here, as far to go from pedal fully depressed state. If the setting is at the very end, the clutch may require major repair or replacement. The brake pedal should not reach the floor a few inches in the fully depressed. Click on it and hold it so about a minute. The tension should subside, otherwise the brake system is leaking.
Let's go!
Because the machine is unknown, be extremely careful.
Brakes. Check them out right after the beginning of the movement. Watch - Do not throw the car to the side when braking, can not be heard in this case whether any other sounds. If the car is away, this is scary (probably not regulated by the collapse of the similarity of wheels). If inhibition occurs in spurts, there's a problem with shoes: You may need to change.
Suspension. Try to ride on small bumps and potholes, and hear how the suspension. Strong knocks should alert you. If the wheel starts to shake at high speed or a sharp turn, the wheel may not be centered or unbalanced. Gearbox and clutch.
Transfer to switch easily and without any extraneous sounds. They also should not get bogged down and popping up (especially the reverse gear). Listen to the noise transmission from squeezed and released the clutch, if you feel the difference - be prepared to repair.
Note
Better check the car in daylight - it is better visible coating defects and touch. Waxy coating, especially under artificial light (such as a garage), do not just hide any scratches, but also a more serious flaw. If your ad has been said about the "appropriateness of bargaining", your first offer price by 30-40 per cent lower, so you will have a supply and room for maneuver. If the pro bargaining does not say anything, you can try to bargain in this case, just be modest and the proposed reduction of 20 percent. A good basis for bargaining can be found by you shortcomings. Talk with a mechanic first, find out what repairs as necessary. Can safely operate then these figures in a conversation with the seller.
|
